Wine Country and Point Reyes

The coolest thing about California is that some of the most beautiful things you've ever seen in your life are just around the corner. This, of course, applies to a lot of places, but how many places can you name where hiking, beaching and skiing are within feasible driving distance from one another? Where there's that, there's bound to be some spectacular scenery- it's simple math. Even a walk down Berkeley's University Avenue provides one with spectacular scenery, as you look out over the Bay towards San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge. A drive up into the Berkeley hills makes that even more spectacular, providing an ab-fab view of the whole Bay in all its glory (if its a clear day that is... The infamous SF fog can put a damper on things). We've watched spectacular sunsets from the hills, the backyard, the marina, the BART (that's the train system for those who don't know) and even from our kitchen window...Ok, that's not really fair- sunsets are not inherent to Californian landscape in any way. But it does add to the experience.
We've been doing day trips up till now in the weekends, as we have full schedules during the week being arty and working on making a living, but have seen and done wonderful things nonetheless. After being subjected to our own enthusiasm for 9 weeks and experiencing new and incredible things every day, we've had to get used to the idea that we could be relaxing somewhat instead of our manic pursuing of the 5008 wonders of the world, and then using weekends for outings with gourmet picnics and guides. Definitely a laid-back approach to life, and judging by our chronic exhaustion we decided right. Besides, when there's beauty and the unknown right on your doorstep, there;s no need for big fancy trips all the time!
We spent one rather gloomy, grey Saturday up in wine country tasting Northern California's best Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Zinfandels (yummmmmm) and eating leftovers from Frances' cooking class (um, gourmet chef training left overs? Don't mind if I do!). Last weekend we went up to Point Reyes, a National Park (or Seashore I think officially) on a penninsula north of San Francisco. Many a baby/toddler photo of me was taken there, and it's a bit of a Visser-Wilson favorite. It might just be a bit of a Heikens favorite now too :) Besides the scenery being out of this world, we saw a WHALE (!!!!) and observed elephant seals from a safe distance (they're apparently quite nimble on their flippers when chasing you across sand, something which humans are NOT) during their mating season. We're going back mid-March as the whale season will be at its peak then, and we should be able to see them up close and personal! We also took a walk on Drake's Beach and saw a seal lying on the sand, and after some discussion as to how close you are allowed to get (and Daniel and Chris doing all sorts of measuring that looked more like the Ministry of Funny Walks than a serious attempt at measuring), we discovered the seal was no longer of this world and that the distance wasn't really important. And so we got to see a dead seal. I tell you, these are the things you don't wake up expecting to happen in the morning.

When in America.......

"Berkeley, Oakland, the Bay Area" (this one's for you, gang)

Back in the Bay, hooray!
Life has been whirlwind-fast since we got here, although compared to other visits this one is a walk in the park :) Due to the fact that we will be in the country for 3 months, the fam has been easy on us and all visits are in good time. Surprisingly we have had ample time to chill the heck out, which was necessary- we have been sleeping, napping and resting mainly on days with no plans, with field trips up to downtown Berkeley and the world's most excellent supermarket the berkeley Bowl for the bare essentials (microbrewery beer, California wine, sourdough bread, fresh fruit and vegetables, organic juice and cheeeeeeeese). We've been wined and dined by various Cali-family members, both biological and adopted, we've had Brazilian, Indian, Singaporian, Mexican, Californian and good ol' American food all in the space of one week. We've caffeinated ourselves at Peet's, the Bay's coffee baby, but also at a variety of new places like the latest hip-n-happening place to be Philz where they make Turkish coffee cup by cup (and it is stroooooong shit). We've tried molasses ice cream, and eaten a maple syrup and bacon doughnut. We've spent a day in our own kitchen making all sorts of delicacies. One thing is certain: we are going to get hyper and fat in this country.
We spent our first day in San Francisco with one goal- going to Alcatraz. All these years of visits to the city and not once had I been to the island. And it just so happens that we know someone that works for the company that runs ferries (and thus entrance fees) to the place. And it's not just anyone, it's my very first and oldest friend, Kyle, who managed to get us a manager escort to the boat and off we went! Alcatraz is a cool visit. We took the audio tour like good little tourists (cause we're getting older and enjoy the history), and stood in Al Capone's cell. We stood in the isolation cells. We wandered around the island and almost got shit on by the massive seagull colony that resides there. We decided never to go to jail. Back in the city, we wandered through the Financial District, took the cable car (another San Francisco tourist trap I had missed over the years) up into Chinatown and wandered back down towards the Embarcadero where the train was waiting to take us home. Good times.
Today we were taken on my aunt Lisbet's tour of the Mission district of San Francisco, where we started the day with a beautiful doughnut and a gorgeous coffee, and then wandered through streets and alleyways that are COVERED in murals. The Mission is what is traditionally known as the immigrant neighborhood (and has followed SF's constant flux in immmigration- changing from Irish to Italian to Mexican to...), but it is starting to become hip and happening (watch out for the yuppies) and thus lose it's international flavor ever so slightly. The now predominantly Latino district is known for it's murals, most of political subject matter, and creating a great vibe. It feels like you're walking through a living art museum, changing through time and culturally flavored. The district also has lots of small boutiques run by the young and creative, making it a must-go place for hipsters but also creating a healthy climate supporting local artists. Does it rate high on our list? Uh, yeah... Finishing the day in the Castro, SF's gay district, was a fine closing to the day, although the best entertainment was watching Daniel get eyed up and down by the passing men. It is said that you should follow the artists and the gay men when it comes down to the property ladder- maybe it applies to choices in men also, in which case I think I did well!

Hello San Francisco!

An 11,5 hour plane ride later, we were back on the ground but this time it was familiar for some and completely new for others. I'd actually been nervous about taking Daniel to the Bay Area, simply because it's my other home, and we are staying for 3 months, and if he didn't like it we might have a slight problem. Oh yeah, and because I wax lyrical about it all the time about it, so I was having to convince myself I wasn't FORCING him to like it. Why I ever worried is beyond me. What's not to like?
My uncle Chris picked us up, and we were taken straight from the airport to the cooking school my aunt Frances works at where we sat down for a 3 course gourmet lunch, after which we were driven across the Golden Gate back to Berkeley, where we stopped at the Berkeley Bowl (the most fabulous, wonderful supermarket in the world) and the Farmer's Market (complete with little bluesy bands busking) on our way home to our home for the next 3 months- the garden apartment under Chris and Frances' house. Really, I don't think Daniel could have had a better introduction to California :)
It's good to be back.

Goodbye New Zealand

Our last few days in NZ were not particularly memorable. After 5 weeks of consistent traveling (actually 9, Japan included), we were shattered. Christchurch was HOT and muggy, which encouraged our lethargy. We rented bikes on the second day to go into the city center, and after about an hour of cycling we realized how ridiculous the idea was. We ended up taking lots of breaks in the shade, peering at the sights and sounds of Christchurch from a slightly cooler distance, and making stops at markets and whatnot selling large containers of icy fluids. It was a good thing we went into the city the first 2 days, as the last 2 days it was positively pissing down and we were not too enthusiastic about doing much of anything that involved going outdoors. Our hostel was wonderful, with enough to do on wet rainy days. Most of the other guests seemed to be biding their time like us, waiting to leave the country or pick up their camper and start their journey. It was a renovated jailhouse, which had closed in 1999 and reopened in the form of a hostel. The owners had done a great job, and it had paid off- the Jailhouse had won tons of awards, and had been crowned Best Hostel in Australasia! It was kind of weird staying in a cell, but we were able to lock it ourselves so that was good :)
We ended up spending our remaining hours watching the Lord of the Rings Trilogy- I'd never really seen them (I know, I know... and I haven't read the book either), and it seemed appropriate after we'd seen or been at a lot of the places it was filmed. Pretty cool! We watched until the VERY end of our trip- we literally handed in the dvd as we left the hostel for the airport... And that was that. A sort flight to Auckland later, we were boarding for San Francisco- sad to leave NZ and wishing we had more time there, but excited to be heading out to the next chapter in our adventure! Here's the best part: We haven't even hit the halfway mark yet :)